Text: Anders Stenbakken
Destination East Greenland
Hunter's Song
Though my home place is nothing but slush
though I am drifting hopelessly on this floe of ice
though all I see is ice everywhere
though my belly is empty
Aja, I am full of joy
Seal hunting has always been the basis of existence for the Inuit in Ammassalik– and it still is for the population of most settlements. The number of seals in East Greenland is unknown, but the seals are very common. About 10,000 seals are caught annually, either by nets that are placed under the ice or by rifle. Most of the skins are sold for processing at the tannery in West Greenland. And the meat? Well, it’s the national dish. Skins with and without hair are used for all kind of clothing. Hats, gloves, bags and furs just to mention some. Furs and trousers made by sealskin are no longer part of the everyday wardrobe, but are mainly used for special occasions.
Four species of seal live in the seas and fjords of East Greenland. It should be emphasised that none of these are threatened with extinction and that hunting for adult seals is the only form of sealing allowed.
The killing of baby seals does not and has never taken place in Greenland. The Greenland seals do not breed in Greenland and it is far from the Greenlandic hunting tradition to hunt baby seals, which do not carry much meat.
The ringed seal, is the smallest species. Characteristic of its skin are the ringed markings, primarily on the dark-grey back. It mainly lives in fjords where there are icebergs and in the areas where the sea freezes during winter. Even though the sea-ice is up to two metres thick, the ringed seal is able to keep a number of breathing holes open and thus survive.
The harp seal is the most numerous species in East Greenland. It comes to East Greenland around June on its way north from the breeding grounds in New Foundland. On sailing trips in the fjords and in Denmark’s Strait one can see groups of up to 20-30 harp seals frisking on the surface of the water.
The hooded seal is the second largest of the four species, with a weight of up to 300 kg. The males can be recognised by the large bladder on their heads, which, when angry, they can inflate to the size of a ball. The meat is mainly used as dog food.
The bearded seal is the largest of the four species up to 400 kilo. It’s rare in East Greenland, but can be found along the entire coast. The skin has no pattern and is greyish/brownish in colour. The bearded seal likes to live around drift ice, but gives birth to its young every year on the fast ice in April-May. Formerly, it was primarily skins from the bearded seal that was used to cover kayaks and women’s boats, called umiaq’s, the whip for dog sledding is still made of the skin from the Bearded seal.
Flensing Song
I put my knife to this bearded seal
I slit it open
I pull out the liver
and offer it to my husband
Aja, we are a joyful couple again